Villa O – Dallas, TX
My first question when I came in was “where are the throngs of Dallas’ beautiful people that other reviewers keep talking about?” This place was as brightly lit as a pizza parlor (which essentially it is—more on that later), allowing us to see that on this Friday night at 10PM, the crowd was largely middle aged and very casual, not the fashion/plastic surgery/skin/muscle parade one expects to see at Dallas’ hot spots. Perhaps our expectations were heightened because Samba Room, which used to occupy the space, was a decidedly sultry, sexy spot with sultry, sexy people waiting in long lines for a table.
The good news is that if the atmosphere took a dive, the food improved significantly. The better news is that the cocktails are still really good. A black sapphire martini (blackberries) was strong and looked menacing sitting in the glass. The Bellini was well mixed and hit all the right notes. But the standout was a Limontini, made with Limocello and tasting ultra-sweet but still, really, really good and very refreshing at the same time.
The wine program is also notable. The list is only 50 wines, but each is available as a glass ($9-32), a half bottle (poured into a carafe) or a whole bottle. It’s a pretty good list with several good values, as evidenced by the fact they were out of my first two selections, both Montepulciano d’Abruzzos that were reasonably priced. Almost all the wines are Italian.
I did mention the food, right? Just like the wine list, the concept here is about lots of choice. There are pizzas, pastas and other entrees and on this visit we all went with pasta. When selecting this meal, you have three decisions to make: the pasta itself, the sauce, and the “extras” if any. The pasta makes the meal—its homemade and delicious. A spinach fettuccine with Wagyu beef Bolognese was yummy and very satisfying. Penne with a tomato-cream vodka sauce and “frutti di mare” was delicious also, if a bit heavy. The chef eating with us pronounced the shrimp overcooked, but nobody else seemed to notice. The creamy flan/custard/crème brulee type desert, the name of which I have forgotten, was fine but not spectacular, and generous enough for two or three people to share.
Oh, and before I forget, the O is for “organic”. That’s right, all of your pasta and sauces will be made with organic ingredients. I am generally indifferent to these things, but I credit the restaurateurs for not price-gouging as a result of their Whole Foods positioning.
The best think about Villa O is that it is a pretty good value. The service was attentive, and mistakes (two of three pasta dishes came out mis-matched) were corrected quickly and with a smile. They really need to do something about the atmosphere though. By 10:30 on a Friday night, the place had cleared out completely. I hope this place gets a chance to correct its little flaws, but I suspect it may not last long. Try it while you can.
Recommended.
