Tillman’s Roadhouse – Dallas TX
This is innovative comfort food, and it’s pretty well prepared. The atmosphere is fun and funky, and this is a great spot for tourists who what to see what the real Dallas is like (at least until tourists discover the Bishop Arts District). The tall dining room is kitschy yet attractive, and conducive to conversation and good eating, even if we found the music a tad loud. They only take reservations for six or more, but our party of four got one of two empty tables when we walked in at 9:45 on a Friday night.
The cocktails started us off on the right foot—a pomegranate mojito was refreshing and a great twist on an old classic, but the standout was the ginger lemon drop, for which the restaurant has kindly offered the recipe on its website: (http://www.tillmansroadhouse.com/drinks.html). The wine list is short and not that special, though there are a good number of wines by the glass available.
Another sign that this is not your mamma’s Texas cuisine: smoky salty peanuts and popcorn—covered in truffle oil—arrive at your table as soon as you sit down. (by the way, if anyone’s mom served truffled popcorn before every meal I would like to submit my name for adoption).
Like almost everyone, we ordered the trio of fries, which includes purple Peruvian, Kennebec parmesan, and my favorite, sweet potato with smoked sea salt. I think half the world’s dishes would probably benefit from smoked sea salt. The consistency of the fried did not impress, but the flavor and novelty makes them worthwhile anyway. A knockout starter which I sampled on a previous visit was the brisket and Oaxaca cheese quesadilla—its perhaps my favorite item on the menu.
Main courses were exemplary—the salmon in particular was hearty and original—glazed with Texas honey and lavender. As big a steak fan as I am, I still have to admit this is the best entrée they serve—it really shouldn’t be missed. My other favorite, a buffalo ribeye, mysteriously disappeared from the menu, replaced by a regular old cow ribeye that was well prepared, but disappointing by comparison. The chipotle barbeque ribs had fantastic seasoning and the meat melted off the bone as it should. The best thing about this dish, though, is that as you work on the meat, its sauce sticks to the white cheddar mac and cheese that accompany the ribs, creating a second course and flavor that is absolutely unique—the creator of this entrée truly understands how to surprise and delight a diner by unraveling a whole new course as they eat. Genius.
The S’mores dessert can’t be missed. Everything from the graham crackers to the marshmallows (like the fries, there are three types: maple, orange, and coffee) is home made. It’s an experience in that you build your own S’more, fondue-style, over an open flame. It’s unforgettable in that its absolutely delicious, a dessert you wish would never end. We ordered more of the orange marshmallows, at $1 each because we simply could not get enough. It’s rare that I would say a place is good enough to go just for the dessert. That would be the case here, except the food is so good I don’t have to.
Service was efficient and very friendly. The only noticeable slip-up was letting my wine (we were buying by the glass) go dry for a prolonged period of time without offering more.
Highly recommended
